James Williams
Historical Tailor
We’ve all experienced a loose button or two in the past, or even lost a button completely. In this tutorial, learn how to attach buttons using traditional methods that will keep your buttons in place for years to come. Begin by marking out the button position based on your pattern, or transferring from the buttonhole …
If one enters the world of tailoring (in any era), it is usually not long before you hear of some mythical era of tailoring when tailors could do everything with regards to drafting and fitting with their ‘rock of eye’. They could probably even make an entire suit with their ‘rock of eye’ just by …
The Madder Root Prior to the creation of man made, synthetic dyes in the late 19th century, all dyeing was done with natural products. One such dye was extracted from the the roots of the Madder family or Rubia, a type of perennial scrambling shrubs and herbs. These Madder plants grow in many parts of …
These trousers were custom made for a gentleman in the New England Brigade, a local reenactment group. One of the customizations I made was to put the watch pocket on the left side of the trousers, as he is left-handed. They are half lined with polished cotton, finished by hand, and were drafted from a …
Today begins a series of tutorials on constructing a Federal Enlisted Frock Coat, as was used during the American Civil War. I’ve made about a dozen of these coats in the past year, with more under way as you read this. In this post, we will mainly discuss the tail facings, preceded by some cutting …
Most of you have experienced a pair of trousers developing holes and tears in the crotch, probably at the least convenient time. Tailors have developed a way to help prevent these issues, called staying the fork. Since this area of the trousers takes the most stress, it’s important to reinforce it. The stay also prevents …
I’ve been drafting patterns using a copy of Louis Devere’s The Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System (1866) for almost two years now. Of the available drafting manuals from the Civil War period, this seems to be the most complete and easiest to learn. Some Mathematics One of the more difficult concepts …
