James Williams
Historical Tailor
With the pocket bags assembled, we can now install them into the trousers. First, we need to trim the trouser fronts to match the shape of our pocket facing pattern, which can be a little intimidating! Place the trouser pattern on the trouser front, aligning the pocket opening marks, and trace the pocket opening shape. …
To begin construction of the pocket bags and facings, first transfer any stripes or plaids to the rear facing pattern. Cut out two of each type of facing and two pocket bags, on the fold. Here’s how the facing matched up after cutting it out. Transfer the pocket open marks from the draft to each …
Drafting an open-top pocket is slightly more involved than the side-seam pocket, due to the special facings and shapes involved, but after a couple of tries you’ll get the process down. Begin by tracing top section of the trouser front pattern on a fresh piece of paper. Add the 1/4″ seam allowances. You really only …
With the pleats done, it’s time to attach them to the shirt front. The long sides are pinned and then basted securely. The long edges at the sides are then felled carefully to the shirt front. Here you can see the felling stitches from the wrong side. Even though they’re not seen, I try to …
I recently started a new project, an 1860s civilian pleated-front shirt, both for myself and for teaching those members on Historical Tailoring Masterclasses. And as always, things started off with drafting a pattern and making a muslin toile for fitting purposes. Here’s the shirt front pattern, where I’ve determined the number of pleats and their …
We’ve all experienced a loose button or two in the past, or even lost a button completely. In this tutorial, learn how to attach buttons using traditional methods that will keep your buttons in place for years to come. Begin by marking out the button position based on your pattern, or transferring from the buttonhole …
Darts, or fishes as they were sometimes referred to, are quite common in men’s clothing of the 19th century, helping to better fit the clothing to the body and give some shape to what would otherwise be a flat-looking garment. Most of these darts are created with the same general method I use here, though …
Constructing an accurate and quality frock coat is all about the details. One such detail is the buttons, often covered in fabric and which could take hours of work to complete. Cloth buttons were very commonly used on frock coats during the 1860s period. Of about one dozen original frock coats I have examined, all …
Today I began a very ‘unique’ waistcoat, in that it’s drafted using Devere’s 1866 manual, has an 1890s or later styled collar, and is made out of a bright and very cheerful pink cotton seersucker fabric. So no, this is not period correct at all — rather it’s for a member of Connecticut Valley Field …
The Jetted or Jeated Pocket is one of the most common pocket types, and forms the basis for many other pocket styles used in coats, waistcoats, and trousers. With this importance in mind, we’ll start with this pocket style in this tutorial series, and build upon your skills in future variations. For now, we will practice making the jettings only, without worrying about the pocket bag and other details. I highly recommend making at least ten pockets for practice, out of a variety of fabrics and weights: wool, silk, linen, cotten, using whichever scraps you may have leftover from other projects. This experience will benefit you greatly in the future.
Plait or pleat pockets in a frock coat are often misunderstood, construction wise, and can be tricky to do correctly. Studying an original coat in my collection, I have reconstructed the methods of making these pockets, and share them for your edification. Your coat should be sewn together at the sidebody and forepart, and skirt …
Hand-tailored buttonholes are a thing of beauty, and in the hands of a skilled tailor, can make a coat stand out amongst others. Properly sewn, they will add a level of detail that you can be proud of, yet at the same time will sit unassumingly against the background of the coat. On the other …
Here are a few photos of today’s work. Since the enlisted frock coats were unlined in the skirt, the tail pockets are exposed. The following photo shows a completed pocket, still with basting stitches in place. It is made out of a brown polished cotton, with a wool facing. Care must be taken when pressing …
It seems these Enlisted Frock Coats have become my specialty. My latest is number twenty five. Here are some photos with brief descriptions for your enjoyment.
Today begins a series of tutorials on constructing a Federal Enlisted Frock Coat, as was used during the American Civil War. I’ve made about a dozen of these coats in the past year, with more under way as you read this. In this post, we will mainly discuss the tail facings, preceded by some cutting …
Most of you have experienced a pair of trousers developing holes and tears in the crotch, probably at the least convenient time. Tailors have developed a way to help prevent these issues, called staying the fork. Since this area of the trousers takes the most stress, it’s important to reinforce it. The stay also prevents …
