Double-Breasted Waistcoat Online Class

Learn to draft, fit, and tailor an 1860s period reproduction waistcoat.

Registration is open for my online double-breasted waistcoat class. This covers all aspects of constructing a men’s double-breasted waistcoat from the 1860s period, from drafting and fitting the waistcoat to fit your specific body type, to constructing the various parts of the waistcoat such as the pockets, canvas and padding, facings, lining, the collar buttonholes, and more. Upon registration you’ll receive immediate access to the entire class, which you can then go through at your own pace.

How it works

Each section contains detailed step-by-step written instructions, clear photographs, and accompanying HD video for those who prefer to learn that way. You’ll also have access to my support forum where I’ll personally answer any questions you may have and be able to help with your fitting.

It depends on your skill level of course, but I’m estimating each section will take from two to five hours to complete, for a total of about 20 – 25 hours of work.

Experience

You should have some basic sewing experience, and perhaps a bit of experience in drafting patterns. Don’t like to draft? No problem! I’ll be offering some free base patterns you can get printed out, as well as custom patterns if you prefer.

I get a lot of questions from people wondering about how long they have to finish the project, but don’t worry about that at all. Other than the material coming out over a two month period, the class is entirely self-paced and you can work as slowly or as quickly as you like, and you have indefinite access to everything. You can always return in the future to finish your waistcoat if ‘life gets in the way’ or you simply want to make another one.

When you complete the class you will have a beautiful, historically-accurate waistcoat representative of the 1860s period!

Supplies and Materials List

Drafting paper
Pencil and eraser
Quilting ruler
Bendable drafting ruler or French curves
Tape Measure

Supplies and Materials List

1 yard silk brocade or taffeta, linen, or wool
1 yard brown polished cotton
1 yard plain linen for canvas
2 - 3 yards 1/4" linen stay tape
Wool quilt batting
1 yard white cotton muslin
Matching thread
8 buttons, approximately 3/8"
Waistcoat buckle
Silk buttonhole twist
Beeswax
Basting thread

Curriculum

Module 1 – Drafting

Learn how to take the appropriate measurements and apply them to your draft as you create a waistcoat pattern that is uniquely suited to your own body. Then turn your pattern into a toile to check how it fits. Learn the various alterations that can be done to improve the fit and get personalized help from James as necessary (I always love helping people)!

Double-breasted Victorian waistcoat draft, 1860s.

Module 2 – The Foreparts

Cut and prepare the front of your waistcoat with attaching the collar, inserting darts, and reinforcing the pockets. Learn how to accurately construct welted pockets for the breast and waist pockets, as well as how to match the stripes on your fabric (if you have them).

Sewing a collar onto a Victorian 1860s waistcoat.

Module 3 – The Canvas

Cut and prepare the canvas using period techniques, add wool padding, and install everything into the waistcoat.

Module 4 – The Lining

Cut and install the facings and lining into your waistcoat forepart for a crisp and firm finish to the edges.

Module 5 – Completing the Waistcoat

Sew the back together, prepare the back buckle, and put the waistcoat together with the front and back pieces. Complete your waistcoat by finishing the collar, topstitching, and adding the buttons and buttonholes.