Unlined Linen Paletot Class
Learn to draft, fit, and construct your own 1860s linen paletot.
Learn to draft, fit, and construct your own 1860s linen paletot.
This is an online class designed to take you through the entire process of drafting, fitting, and constructing an unlined linen paletot from the late 1850s – early 1860s period. A paletot has a similar profile to a frock coat, but lacks a seam at the waist, making it substantially more easy to fit and construct. This particular coat is based on photographs of an original garment from the time period, and is perfect for wearing during those hot summer days!
This course on constructing an unlined linen paletot is held entirely online and at your own pace. When you sign up, you get immediate access to the entire course, so you can dive right in and finish the entire coat in a couple of weeks, take your time and work on it over a few months, or for you professional procrastinators, take ten or more years if you must (though I hope you do get it finished much more quickly!). You’ll also get personal help from me through email or my support community if you get stuck at any point along the way.
Join many others who’ve successfully completed the course and have made their own beautiful paletots.
This course is designed for the late beginner or intermediate tailor who has at least a little sewing experience. I'd recommend you having made a couple of trousers, or waistcoats, whether they be drafted yourself or from commercial patterns, before attempting this project. That said, it's the perfect introduction to coat making as you can focus more on getting the fit right, while building up your knowledge of construction techniques without getting into too much overwhelm.
Begin by learning how to draft your pattern using your own measurements and a period drafting system. Then take that pattern and fit it with a muslin toile (take a few photos and James will help you personally!).
Begin cutting out your coat and assemble the main body, starting with the side piece, back vent, and getting the body of the coat together.
Cut and install the coat facings using some special techniques to ensure everything falls in place evenly. Then close up the shoulder seams, finishing the raw edges as you go.
Draft and assemble the collar, using period techniques and a lot of basting! I’ll show you in this section how to ensure the collar lays closely against the body.
Construct the sleeves and cuffs. Learn how to set the sleeves quickly and accurately.
Finish up your paletot by attaching the sleeves, working the buttonholes, top stitching, and finally, adding the buttons.
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